travel log: sweden!
bits and pieces. travel is a state of mind.
Most of my newsletters feel like a meander through my brain, and maybe this means that I should keep a diary or something so I get out all of the filler before turning to this published newsletter, that—even if you never open it—will sit somewhere for digital eternity wherever, and if, it reaches you.
I’ve been traveling for about four days in Sweden, though it feels hard to keep account of days when you’re traveling. The summer solstice just passed, with midsummer celebrations, and I can strongly affirm that the presence of perpetual sunlight plays a number on your circadian rhythms. Last night, my friend Grace and I went for a bike ride nearly at 11 PM on Visby’s coastline, and I could see everything on the path, in addition to one of the most dramatic sky scapes of my life.
Anyways, we started our two-week trip in Stockholm, where, upon arriving, I was blinded by the glimmering water—blinking, blinking—docked ferries ready to depart for the nearby archipelagos, ornamented castle-like buildings, and the leisurely picnicking of couples, or friends, in nearly every public park we passed. I saw tall and shiny people clad in linen striding by, and standing in the city’s center, I bought into everything the city was whispering to me.
I’ve never been to either Sweden or Norway, and one of the best parts of travel is the ‘newness’—suddenly everything, no matter how mundane, is worthy of another glance. How the crowds move, what the trash cans look like, people’s faces, the supermarket candy (maybe just a me thing).
In Stockholm, I had no idea that you could so easily traverse one of the short bridges, cross water, and arrive at another part of the city. In Skeppsholmen, on my first day, I spent a good two hours at the Moderna Museet, and on our second day, we spent time at Skansen, an outdoor museum, and Rosendals Tradgard, a garden, farm and cafe, both in Djurgarden. Wandering Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, and Fotografiska were also highlights. I shared some of my favorites here.
I think it’s a bit boring for me to write down everything I did and saw because it couldn’t nearly convey the potency or reality of being-in-a-place-ness. However, I will say the in-between parts of the ‘activities’ above felt just as delicious, and steeped in the ‘new.’ Mainly because I think that travel and that receptivity of feeling is a mindset. Even walking in the park, quiet time reading a book, eating a long meal, and wandering the shops felt luxurious sometimes. That isn’t to say that commercial shops, long lines, trash, loud crowds weren’t also there as well—but I think that when I’m traveling I notice those things far less. The wonder mindset is enough.
After Stockholm, we went to Visby via a quick flight! Visby is a former Viking site on the island of Gotland, east of the Swedish mainland. We were right by the water, and I can only describe the town as picturesque. We sweated, and then jumped into the frigid water. Swimming in the Baltic Sea and being rocked by the undulating waves; I can’t describe it. The daytime beach club (?) was pounding beats, and seeing forty-year old women and men take off their clothes and dance filled me with a silly sort of joy.
Saffron is a prominent Swedish flavor, and I tried saffron gelato at Gotlato, a saffron waffle, and saffranpannkaka, which is a provincial dessert made from pudding rice, cream, milk, sugar, egg, chopped almonds, and saffron. Saffron made its entrance into the Swedish diet via long circuitous trade routes; you can read more on it here. I also finally met Marta of
, who is so genuine and hard-working! We had a veggie-centric meal at Var Fru.
Now we’re in another part of Gotland, another part of the world. The days feel short and long. What a pleasure it is to experience them. Bon voyage!